The Sakae handlebars for this period, at least some of those built for Schwinn, are kind of splayed out where they curl down, sort of like a big horn sheep horn.
Anyway, next I attach the Sakae Custom stem to the handlebar.
Then I work the Dia-Compe non-aero brake levers on to the handlebar and position them, tightening the clamp on each when I think it's where it should go (I'm always wrong about it, though, and end up repositioning them before putting on the handlebar tape).
Finally, lots of grease down the steerer tube and around the base of the stem (keeping Miss Maruishi in mind {who is still on her back getting lube treatments, btw}) so the stem will never seize up - in my lifetime, at least - and I insert the stem and tighten it up temporarily.
Anyway, next I attach the Sakae Custom stem to the handlebar.
Then I work the Dia-Compe non-aero brake levers on to the handlebar and position them, tightening the clamp on each when I think it's where it should go (I'm always wrong about it, though, and end up repositioning them before putting on the handlebar tape).
Finally, lots of grease down the steerer tube and around the base of the stem (keeping Miss Maruishi in mind {who is still on her back getting lube treatments, btw}) so the stem will never seize up - in my lifetime, at least - and I insert the stem and tighten it up temporarily.
Now we're ready for the wheels. The Schwinn came with a very nice wheelset. The rims are Weinmann, made in Belgium, and the hubs are Maillard, made in France.
The spokes, being stainless steel, must've come from a kitchen somewhere...
I've put Schwalbe Active 27 x 1 1/4 touring tires with white walls on the wheels, since they had white walls on them originally.
Casey the parts cleaner did a fairly good job of repacking the bearings in the hubs, they spin pretty smoothly!
The spokes, being stainless steel, must've come from a kitchen somewhere...
I've put Schwalbe Active 27 x 1 1/4 touring tires with white walls on the wheels, since they had white walls on them originally.
Casey the parts cleaner did a fairly good job of repacking the bearings in the hubs, they spin pretty smoothly!
Finally, for tonight, the new KMC chain. To measure the length that a new chain should be, you wrap the chain around the largest rear sprocket and then around the largest front sprocket - without threading it through the derailleur - and then overlap the chain about 1 inch or two links. That's the ideal length. This is what I learned online, but I can't remember who to blame if it ever doesn't work.
You then thread the chain through the derailleurs and around the sprockets, and connect the two ends using two little half-links that make up what's called "The Missing Link".
And now you have power to the wheel!
You then thread the chain through the derailleurs and around the sprockets, and connect the two ends using two little half-links that make up what's called "The Missing Link".
And now you have power to the wheel!
Time to finish the pedals by putting the straps back on...
Next, installing cables and housings!
Next, installing cables and housings!